One of Julia's favorites: tender escargots bobbing in garlicky butter!
I. These chickens are “so chickeny!!!”
Just before we went on our Paris and Provence trip, I started reading “My Life in France” by Julia Child and Alex Prud’homme. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the book, it is a collection of stories recounting in detail the culinary experiences Julia and her husband enjoyed while living in France. I found it rather curious that I was about the same age as Julia when she first moved to France (in her late 30’s); and as I was following along, involuntarily I found myself comparing my reactions to hers. To my disappointment, next to her spontaneous, excited, persevering, restless, enterprising, and always joyous “virtual” personality, my enthusiasm for gastronomy seemed flat.
Granted, my French experience was not nearly as eye-opening as for her. I was a seasoned traveler with several prior visits to France under my belt, well versed in the high art of Food (yes, in France cooking is regarded as a combination of national sport and high art):
a thing of French beauty at L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles
Yet, I could not help but envy her giddiness, her falling in love with la belle France, her first morsel of perfection (sole meuniere)…
II. “Anyone can cook in the French manner anywhere with the right instruction.”
It is absolutely astounding how devoted Julia Child was to the rules of “la cuisine francaise”. She and her fellow “gourmettes” believed in a scholarly approach, with a strong emphasis on skill and technique. Quite different from “fast and effortless cooking” marketing scheme so ubiquitous nowadays…
I am a queen of culinary shortcuts and cheating. I am not a cookbook/recipe person, and usually reserve precision for my financial analyses. As a result, the simplest dishes (such as a perfect omelet) terrify me. But, not unlike Holly in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, I could totally whip up a “roasted pheasant stuffed with pomegranates and persimmons”.
My favorite tricks: truffles, butter, scallops...LOTS of room for error!
And so, after reading the book I was inspired to challenge myself, and to attempt the so-called “flat French omelet”. The proper way.
I watched a couple of Julia Child’s original TV episodes, and learned the following:
- It is all in the wrist (and I don’t mean the whipping up of the eggs, as she simply used chopsticks to blend the yolk and the white). I am talking about the perfect motion of rigorously moving the eggs up and down the sides of the pan during the 20 seconds it takes to make a perfect omelet. Also, it helps to have the right pan (here goes my disdain for gadgets).
- Have no fear. You have to have the confidence to crank up the heat to HIGH.
Making this beautiful omelet took SEVERAL tries; that was a true lesson in humility. But for a perfectionist, such as Julia Child, nothing less would do. My fourth simple flat French omelet (omelette nature) turned out glorious, – silky, airy, moist, and rich. It was almost like magic: it tasted as if it were full of luxurious ingredients, like whipped cream.
And yet, it only contained two eggs, salt, pepper and water…
I felt that it could only be improved upon by a morel cream sauce because takeaway number three is:
III. Keep oneself open to creative exploration, because “the pleasures of the table, and of life, are infinite – toujours bon appétit!”
omelette aux morilles
Come Due Maiali / "Like Two Pigs" 
I loved that book- I was sad when it ended. I never expected to like it as much as I did or to discover that Julia was as unfailingly enthusiastic as you point out. Passionate, really.
Yes, I loved her narrative voice, and of course there is something about visiting all the same places while reading the book. Makes it more authentic, I guess.
I’ve never tried an omelette a la Child yet, but your post has inspired me that perhaps it’s about time I should…
It was a nice challenge for me, as it is so minimalist. You will enjoy it. Do watch her YouTube videos on the “flat French omelet” to pick up the proper arm/wrist movement.
Every time I try to make an omlette it turns into scrambled eggs? What’s the secret?
Ok, it all will sound deceptively simple, because it is (deceptive, that is):
Take 2 eggs, season them with pepper and salt, add a bit of water, and use chopsticks to blend the yolk and the white. Do not overwork.
Get the proper pan (non-stick, say, 8 inches in diameter), with highish sides so that your eggs don’t go all over the place when you “violently throw them around”. Get the pan hot (on high the entire time), and add a tablespoon of butter to grease it. Make sure to grease the sides!
Right before the butter starts browning, pour in the eggs; let them bubble up for 3 seconds, and then start moving the eggs towards you and back very rigorously. The omelet is shaken, not stirred, thus the omelet and not scrambled eggs. Over the next 15 seconds the omelet will start forming; when it is ready, flip it over onto a plate so that it is the “pretty side up”. I do recommend watching the vintage footage of her teaching available on YouTube.
Good luck!
I want those eggs now! The scallops too 🙂 Juliet read that book and loved it
You’re gonna have to come and get them 🙂
Are you guys packing yet?
Wow, never realised I cook omelette the way the French using a little water. I don’t drink milk so water is always the substitute. Not with scrambled, though – then it’s always a little single/light cream…delish!
Yes, that is the “scientific” way. Dairy products (the fat in the milk or cream) actually weight down the eggs, so if you are looking for light and fluffy, you would want to go with water, which evaporates and creates steam.
I never knew that before… is it the same with scrambled?
the way the French do…sorry!
You used morels.
Jealous. So, so freaking jealous right now.
Actually, I did not have fresh morels (not sure if it was obvious from the picture or not). But dried morels are available in grocery stores all year around. I am a big fan of reconstituting porcinis, morels, wood ear, trumpet, and lobster mushrooms. Others, such as shitakes, enokis, etc. I can easily get fresh. What can I say – I am a mushroom freak.
Color me shocked! I was so unaware that I could possibly get dried morels! I see I’m going to need to be more diligent in my searching.
If you have a WholeFoods nearby, check there first (both in the produce section and in dry grocery). Good luck!
I’ve been making myself this omelet for breakfast for years – until recently. I’ve now discovered oatmeal and fruit mixtures for a nice (and healthy) alternative. All so good!
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